Durban, Sth Africa (3rd November to 27th November)

After giving "Erica's" hull a waterblast clean between tides at the Tuzi Gazi marina, we left Richards Bay, Sth Africa on the 3rd of November bound for Durban.

It was an overcast showery afternoon with a good breeze from behind so we covered the first few miles rapidly with assistance from a current just 4nm from land.. We watched whales rolling just ahead of us with the fins dipping in and out of the water, apparently unaware of us. We had to take rapid action to avoid them, which mean't an uncontrolled gybe, which ripped the mainsail as it swung across and punctured the sail against the ratlines. (Ladder up the mast)

 





The next drama was in the night when we rolled over the back of a sleeping whale which caused the boat to slam to one side as we flicked off it's back. That action caused the big
foresail to split... So we were down 2 sails..
The wind was up to 30knots so our trusty little jib carried us downwind, but at a lesser speed. 
 Both sails Eric had already repaired hoping to get us to Capetown where we planned to have new sails made anyway.

We arrived at the entrance to Durban harbour and had to roll around and pitch up and down for 1.5 hrs until 3 ships transited the narrow entrance.

We made our way to the Durban marina's visitors dock and had a security guard waiting to take our lines at 0400hrs!! What a welcome!!
After a stiff rum we tumbled into bed.

"Erica" berthed at the International dock in Durban.


 The Point yacht club and the Royal Natal yacht club are very welcoming and we enjoyed several meals there. We were able to remain at the International dock for a few days while Refridgeration technicians made minor adjustments to the freezer unit, our sails were taken to the Quantum sail loft and canvasses were repaired. Several other yachts came in over that time so it was a good social time.

With many more yachts due to arrive, including the Atlantic rally boats, we moved up the harbour to the very welcoming Bluff Yacht club onto a mooring.

Here we waited for 2 weeks for our new wardrobe of sails to be made.

We didn't see much of Durban as we had become nervous from all the stories we were told about the crime in the city. Normally we would walk and bus around the places we visit, but this was unsafe. Sth Africa has around 16,000 murders a year, not to mention the muggings.

We met so many lovely people at the club who went out of their way to take us to the supermarket/ chandler and some sightseeing. Thankyou to Denzel, Chris, Lawrence and Ali.

Andrew and Hanna have just a few weeks until "Splashdown" of their catamaran which they've been finishing on the hardstand at the club.. We enjoyed their hospitality and company and stories of their life in Zimbabwe. Thankyou Andrew and Hanna

Lawrence and Alley who are finishing their own designed and built catamaran extended their generosity on numerous occasions. Lawrence sings in a barbershop choir called the "Highway men" and we enjoyed a night out where the choir entertained at a Retirement home for their xmas party.

 They are both artists.. Ally's median is fabric and textiles. Lawrence's is primarily pictorial charactitures extending into contemporary painting and sculpture, including theme park and theatre props. He was a professional animator.
He very quickly created a cartoon account of our encounters with whales!

We thoroughly enjoyed a performance put on at the yacht club by the "Tafeta Revellers" followed by a Pork roast and Tipsy tart.

With nothing to keep us here but the Southerly winds we plan to set sail next week with our new sails. (Great job Quantum)

We are bound for Port Owen, 90nm NW of Capetown..The weather will determine whether we stop along the way.

Cruisers Notes

We made an easy run to Durban. Overnight, we road up on the backs of two separate whales. We had to standby to allow the entry and exit of several ships to and from the habour. We proceeded directly to the Durban marina and found a prime berth in the far NW reaches of the marina. (29*51.787S) (31*01.289E) At 04:00 hrs several people were there to help us tie up and by 10:00 hrs the Point YC President was shouting us beers at the bar ! Later on moorings were at a premium. If you must anchor out be aware that due to dredging some of the ground is not good. We were told by the marina staff to clear in at customs. When we went to where we had been told to go, we were then redirected farther down the road. As we walked we noticed some rather unsavory intoxicated characters and then a lot of beggars at a large intersection we had to cross.

So we just said bugger this and didn't check in! When we checked out, a Bluff YC member drove us to the correct building and took us through the rabbit-warren of offices to do the check out . I don't now how anyone achieves it with out local help!

We can highly recommend the hospitality of the Bluff YC at the top of the habour. Especially for smaller boats. The water up there is filthy. It is a little out of town . But the lovely little, well kept club and its members make you really feel at home. (29*54.082S) (31*00.436E)

We required new sails and had a complete new set made by Quantum Sails in Cape Town Via The Durban Loft. We were extremely impressed by the rugged, customized, real cruising sails that were delivered. Another company we approached told us “we only do it our way”! Quantum said “we do it your way.” A great way to start!

Next we left with many others who had backed up waiting for that elusive break to get south.

The rule of thumb is when you get it, take it and get as far around as you can.

We set a conventional course SE and we went well south and east before we picked up the Agulhas current.

Many sailors will tell you when and where you will find the current but it is only generalisation.

We had a good run to Port Elizabeth, averaging around 10 knts for 24 hrs at one stage.