Reunion ( 20th September to 2nd October 2012)

We left Port Louis, Mauritius on the 20^th September after clearing with immigration and customs. Unfortunately we were unable to clear early, due to bureaucracy, which very much affected our time of arrival in La Reunion. We were informed that the wind usually piped up mid morning and it was best to get into the harbour and marina as early as possible.

A large ship carrying 2 oil rigs was an interesting site as we left port and dolphins accompanied us as Mauritius's profile disappeared over the horizon.

We had a good 25hr sail, keeping our full mainsail and genoa flying in winds ranging from 15- 27knots once we got out of the shelter of land. At sunrise the sun was on the SE side of La Reunion with cloud obscuring the volcanic peaks.

The scenery along the coast was stunning.

We reached the St Pierre harbour entrance with the wind howling and had a rapid approach to the town sea wall as the wind pushed us in. Fellow cruising friends were there to take our lines as our heavy bowsprit connected with the concrete wall, but no damage was done.  3 other yachts came in later in the morning and afternoon and with the wind still blowing above 20knots they had difficulty turning in the restricted harbour and sustained damage to their paint as they encountered the concrete wall.

We had a pleasant welcome at the marina office, where these photos of the harbour entrance were taken.

The next morning before the wind got up we moved into the marina

After a few days of orientating ourselves to the facilities in St Pierre and enjoying the local sites we set off on a bus to Cilaos.

A beautiful little mountain plateau village 2.5 hrs from here.

The roads were well maintained but narrow with lots of switch backs. At times the bus had to back up for another vehicle or vice versa. We followed the dry riverbed, steadily climbing.

We encountered 3 tunnels which were very tight for the bus to squeeze through. There we lots of gouges to the tunnel walls and the sides of the buses.

There were villages tucked away above the riverbed, on plateaus and against the mountain sides. The scenery was breathtaking and the bus trip exhilarating

The village of Cilaos was most quaint with pretty shops and houses and a lovely church.

We enjoyed french beer and lunch in the garden of a lovely cafe. French cuisine certainly lives up to its reputation! ...Bon Aperitif!

We had time for a hike on a mountain trail above the village and had great views over the circe

All too soon it was time to catch the bus back to Saint Louis, then on to St Pierre. 

A mini van had disgorged all its passengers to take photos right in front of the tunnel approach and our driver expressed his anger by honking repeatedly on the horn. To add to this another bus was coming out of the tunnel which left even less room. On reversing he backed into a small vehicle out of his vision. The female driver then drove in front of him to block his escape route, where they had altercations to our amusement. She was as unimpressed by his actions as he was with the tour mini van and the tourists.

On the 27^th September we shared a car to drive to the volcano with a fellow cruiser Xavier, whom we had met in Langkawi, Malaysia. He is French so it was most helpful for him to drive, as we have never driven on the right side of the road. Also very few of the 800,000 population in La Reunion speak English so we were delighted to have him as our guide..

The scenery was a lunar landscape

Enjoying coffee and Pain au chocolat. (Chocolate filled croissants) at the lookout point.

During a steep descent to the caldera basin we were treated to surreal views

The trail across the caldera basin, up the lava flows and around the side of the mountain to the crater at the top was 12km and would take us 5 hrs return

The French foreign legion were keeping up their fitness on the slopes as well.

Eric was protecting a tender knee so chose not to do the last 15mins to the crater, so Cathy and Xavier went on ahead.

On the way down, Xavier was conversing with an attractive French tourist who was holidaying from France, while we descended at a slower pace due to fatigued limbs. After introductions at the rendezvous point the girls mother collapsed, appearing to be suffering from heatstroke.  After not recovering we decided she needed to be airlifted to hospital.

Xavier signaled the helicopter in while Eric tried to convince the onlookers to stay well clear of the proceedings

The helicopter did not land but dropped 2 medics who attended to the women and winched her back up

The weather remained good for the manoeuvre.  Just in time as the fog started to drift over then filled in.

On arrival back to the car park we enjoyed a picnic of baguettes before returning to St Pierre and a long cold beer at the Kahlua Bar.

We have had a great time here in Reunion and now it is time to move on to Sth Africa via the south passage around Madagascar.

Today we have stocked up with fresh produce at the beach-side market, strolled along the waterfront and attended to email correspondence.

The weather looks good to leave Reunion on Tuesday morning ( 2/10/2012) along with fellow cruisers Brian and Dorothy on SV Tagish.

CRUISERS NOTES

Our electronic navigation was accurate for the harbour entrance and navigational aids are excellent.

The wind often accelerates around the sth of the island and blows diagonally across the harbour. It is desirable particularly if the wind is up, to make a tight U turn to starboard into the wind and tie up to the town wall to port with plenty of fenders.

As we entered we had a minimum of 3m of water under us and as you may well know the harbour authorities prefer that you don't enter if you have a draft greater than 2.2m, or if a  swell is running greater than 2.5m.

On docking, proceed to the harbour masters office which is reasonably distinctive. It is a 2 story building with a glass windowed dome atop. Climb up the internal spiral staircase to the top.

Formalities are quick, relaxed and friendly. The police/gendarmes will visit the boat on behalf of customs/immigration.

Wireless internet is not available at the marina but is in the process of being installed.

Pre paid cellular broadband does not seem to be available ( longterm plan only)

Cellphone prepaid sim cards are 15Euro with minimum of 5Euro loaded.

Wireless internet is available at several cafes/bars along the waterfront. We found the Kahlua bar opposite the marina excellent as there is some English spoken, it is quiet in the morning and there was a power socket if you require it.  The use of this was free with a coffee.

The bus service is inexpensive and good. Supermarkets are well stocked.

Saturday market on the waterfront (turn left on exiting the marina and walk for around 20mins) is good and varied.

The information centre with produce shop opposite is handy. ( Turn right on exiting the marina, walk over the bridge, then turn left.)

Last day in Mauritius (14th August to 20th September 2012)

We left Grand Bay on the 14th August with masking tape and only a sealing coat on our toe rail cappings. We were frustrated with the weather and after 2 days at Port Louis we set sail for Black river. It is more sheltered with less chance of rain and we were able to finish the exterior varnish work...... So it was time to do some more sightseeing!!

With fellow cruisers Jeremy and Kathy of  "Sal Darago", we caught buses around the island to Maheborg, Grand Port via the southern route. It was an interesting trip following the coastline.
We had tried to circumnavigate the island in "Erica" some weeks earlier but the wind always seemed to be against us and we were unsure about the reef entrances, so it was good to see it from the land. Maheborg was the site of a big naval battle with several French and British ships in the lagoon....Napoleon won..

We enjoyed a quick lunch and a walk along the waterfront before catching a bus to Port Louis, then another back to Black River. It was a full day on the buses, around 5 hrs, but thoroughly enjoyable. It is a cheap and reliable way to get around the island, as long as you have the time.
The buses are quite colourful with individual names

 

 Another excursion was in the dinghy following the shoreline behind the reef. There are lots of varied boats anchored here and lovely homes.

This roof of a church was well worth a photo

Coastguard have 3 boats plus a small inflatable in Black river and are very professional about checking foreign boats paperwork and ensuring security and safety in the area..

 Yachts Mr Curly and Yelo arrived in the bay and we enjoyed a picnic ashore on the top of the Martello tower with Richard and Kathy and Rolf and Daniela.

 

The races in Port Louis have been running since 1812 and since we have never been before it was an occasion not to be missed. Every Saturday they are held so we took the opportunity to go

We had a lucky win on one of our bets, which paid for our day out

On the 10th of September, after spending near a month in Black river ( the second time) we sailed back up to Grand bay with Rolf and Daniela of "Yelo" and were able to get photos of our boats under sail

Now we are at the Port Louis marina doing last minute preparations and clear Immigration, customs and coastguard tomorrow morning. It is a 24hr sail to Saint Pierre marina in the south of Reunion.