Port Elizabeth to Port Owen, Sth Africa via Dassen Island ( 5th December to 9th December 2012)

We left Port Elizabeth on the 5^th of December bound for Port Owen via the Cape of Good Hope.

We had a great run in light winds using our great new little down wind sail then motorsailing as the winds eased. One night the phosphorescence was so intense we watched dolphins torpedoing across our bows and under the boat illuminated like skyrockets. Unfortunately it couldn't be captured on film.

As we got nearer to the Cape of Good Hope we noticed seals, gannets and kelp and the weather turned colder.

Rounding the Cape of Storms was easy in light winds. Table mountain was a distinct landmark even though she was covered in a table cloth ( The mist)

On the 4^th night we anchored in the lee of Dassen island for some sleep.

The next day after an early start we encountered several pods of Southern Right whales. They were the closest encounter we had had apart from the hits off Madagascar and Durban with Humpbacks..

We were pretty scared as they leapt and tail flapped right beside us!!

We arrived at St Helena bay and the entrance to the Berg river before nightfall and were amazed at the number of shags perched on the wall barricade.

We tied up at the marina holding jetty for the night and this shag allowed us to hold him. Maybe he had been in captivity at some stage.

The next day we moored fore and aft at the Port Owen marina alongside NZ friends Cathy and Peter of SV “Leto”. Port Owen is situated between Laaiplek and Velddrif

For the next week we scrubbed and tidied and organised flights to NZ amongst a busy social schedule. The Port Owen yacht club members have been so hospitable and helpful and we enjoyed club night drinks and a meal later in the week.

The yacht club is situated on the river flats and when the tide is in the flamingoes and herons feed in the shallow water

We also bumped into 2010 Indonesian rally friends Linda and Andy who have left their yacht in Trinidad and are holidaying here with Linda's brother over the festive season.

They invited us to the celebration of brother David's new yacht purchase. He has a lovely home with jetty and boat moored alongside. Thankyou David for sharing your special day.

Andy and Linda took us sightseeing to nearby Sun mountain with magnificent views across the plains. On a winters day the visibility is so good one can see Table mountain 175kms south.

There were a few lovely flowers. Apparently in August when they are in full bloom it is a sight not to be missed

We stopped at the village of Aurora at a quaint restaurant for lunch where David joined us on his motorbike.  A fabulous day out!

Thankyou David, Linda and Andy

Cathy just had to sit on it. Eat your heart out Ryan. There's 1300cc under the seat

Our “Erica” will be in hibernation for a few months while we return to NZ and Australia

Cruisers Notes

Dassan Island and Port Owen

The charting was not perfect here . Daylight approach only. (33*25.008S) (18*05.068E) Good holding on a sand bottom. We stopped overnight here three times on our way north and later back to Capetown and even when the wind or wave direction was not ideal we still had a reasonable night.

The next day was an easy run to Port Owen in the Berg River. We tied up to the marina holding pier in the river (32*46.699S) (18*08.998E) and then berthed at the marina on the high tide the next morning.

Port Owen is a new residential canal development nestled between several old Afrikaans towns. There are few security issues here. No barbed wire or electric fences. A nice stroll into town. Small but good supermarkets. Some marine supplies mostly for the fishing boats that operate from there. Stroll down to the YC for a beer and watch the flamingos wading. Or explore the river . We were looking forward to this. However the rules had changed and we now had to rush back to CapeTown to clear . We stopped overnight at Dassan Is, then on to CT. We motored all the way!  

Port Elizabeth, Sth Africa (27th November to 5th December 2012)

On the afternoon of the 27th November we set sail from Durban in light Southerlies and followed the coastline south. 8 other yachts headed off as well, some heading directly out to sea to find the awesome Agulhas current . This current is reputed to run down the 200m line about 15nm out to sea from Durban and continues south giving a boost of up to 6knots in speed. It changes it's position and speed constantly. If the current hits a strong southerly storm it can cause vertical waves of up to 20m high! 

We felt it's beneficial effect the next day and with a wind change to the north we had a superb sail. Our new sails, especially the twin headsails were a treat running downwind.

Our top speed was 13.2kn down a wave and we averaged 9 -10 taking us quickly south

  

The ships coming from the south were pushing into it causing some spectacular bow sprays

The wind changed to the south again so we headed in to Port Elizabeth for shelter and to visit with a relative of Cathy's brother in law arriving there just before daybreak , doing the distance in 36hrs. Our quickest passage to date.

There was a ship loading manganese and with the wind blowing across the marina our lovely clean "Erica" got covered in this fine black powder which was very difficult to remove.

The next day we had the delight of meeting Ian and a friend of his, Conellia, and after a tour of our boat we had brunch at the boardwalk. They then took us along the coast to the Recife lighthouse and the Rehabilitation centre at Summerstrand for aquatic birds, mostly the African penguin.

We had a tour of the centre which was excellent and it was explained to us how birds are treated after an oil spill at sea.

We then visited the Schoonmaker and Sardinia bay area where the Sacramento walking trail runs along the coast, named after the Portuguese ship "Sacramento" which was wrecked in 1647 carrying a shipment of cannon
Cold ales in a seaside restaurant full of memorabilia went down well!

The day ended at the Algoa bay yacht club where we watched part of the rugby match between England and NZ, where the Kiwis lost.

The next day we had coffee aboard with Ian and friend Renee, then they took us to see the city of Port Elizabeth and learn the history of the settlers.

We enjoyed a hearty lunch at the Keg then drove north up the coast , passing the Maitland river estuary and extensive sand dunes

followed by a walk along Kini beach

Monday was an early start with Ian and Conellia taking us to the Addo elephant Park

We didn't see lions at the Imfolozi game reserve while we were at Richards Bay so it was great to come across 2 lionesses lying in the shade of a tree beside the road.

It was a beautiful day and we saw many animals and birds

Morning coffee was enjoyed in an enclosed picnic area where birds and mice came to get biscuit crumbs

There were many herds of elephant who unlike the elephants at Imfolozi seemed quite comfortable with our presence

Ian and Conellia brought a magnificent lunch with them and we partook in the popular Sth African Braai (BBQ) enjoying Kudu steaks and salad and good Sth African wine

We drove back to Port Elizabeth through the huge citrus growing orchards marvelling in the expanse of the countryside.

The day ended with drinks and a meal aboard "Erica" with Ian and Renee and cruising friends Ann and Barry of "Catspaw 4"

The last day in Port Elizabeth was spent scrubbing the entire boat, sails and ropes, fenders and dinghy of Manganese dust. Our fellow cruisers also spent the day with water hoses and scrubbing brushes at hand. Port Elizabeth will not be forgotten for that or the wonderful new friends we made there.

Thankyou Ian, Conellia and Renee

Cruisers Notes

Port Elizabeth was easy to access. We Arrived at night as usual and anchored just off the wave boom in front of the marina. (33*57.906S) (25*38.188E) As you will find everywhere ,that we experienced, the marina is basic . (A little rough around the edges) but affordable and as usual friendly. No check in and out.... YEAH! Outside the marina but within the port area is a good chandler and an electronics repair shop.

The negative to PE is that if the wind is from the west, as it was at the time we were there, they were still loading Manganese up wind of the marina, what a mess!!

After a short stay we were away with the next wind change. We had a great run clean through to Dassen Island