Dominique (“Waitukubuli” translating to “Tall is her body”) (24th November to 2nd December)

After an early 0345hr start and rough crossing of 47nm from St Pierre, Martinique we arrived in Portsmouth, Dominique. We had big seas and strong winds with squalls as we left the island and all the way up the coast of Dominique as the wind and rain swept down from the mountain valleys.

 

Eric was disappointed he couldn't fish. Sargasso weed was a problem in fouling up the fishing lure. 

We arrived at Prince Rupert bay to a white-out squall and had to put the anchor down on the other side of the bay. We were warmly greeted by Martin on the boat Providence who is an official guide and taken to the customs/Immigration clearance dock. It was a quick clearance in and out which is valid for 2 weeks.....All the countries we have been to so far necessitate clearance again before leaving their country so this was a welcome surprise.

We moved to the other side of the bay and reunited with some other kiwi cruisers on the yacht “Rombus” whom we had met in Trinidad

The next day (27/11/14) being American Thanks giving saw us aboard the Catamaran “Eventide” and partaking in the hospitality of Todd, James and Brittany. The turkey and trimmings were great! We took over a piece of NZ cuisine in the way of the dessert “pavlova”.

They were keen to do a tour of the island so we joined forces and took a taxi together the next day, visiting Calibishie, the Carib territory and Emerald Waterfall.

Our driver/guide, Alec was very interactive and showed us coffee growing and banana plantations along the way while we sampled the produce

The lookouts across to the north were picturesque

We stopped at a fishing village where red snapper are caught in traps and produce is supplied to the French islands of Marie Galante and Iles Des Saintes.

We were keen to visit the Carib territory as these fierce warriors who predated the Europeans and kept them at bay for a couple of hundred years by hiding in the dense mountainous terrain outlived most of the Carib Indians in the rest of the Caribbean. They were eventually forced into a treaty with the Europeans and given a territory on the windward coast. We drove through the Kalinago settlement and were interested to see that their origins must have been Asian with their bronze colouring and Asian features.

Alec stopped for us to purchase and sample cassava bread which was made in a huge wok-like oven on site. It was delicious!

Growing next to the shop was a tree with very colourful fruit called Aki. It is grown mostly in Jamaica. The fruit is poisonous until it bursts open and releases a gas. It is then seeded and eaten

It had been a beautiful clear day up until we stopped for lunch. The view across the sea from the hilltop was temporarily obscured by the rain but opened up again for us to enjoy it

The bar area was loaded with bottles of spices and pickles

A walk through the cool and lush National park followed by a swim in the Emerald pool and shower under the waterfall brought us near to the end of a great day

The next day making use of the fine weather we walked to the Cabrits National Park at the end of the bay with Graeme and Joan ( Irish) of “SV Karma” to see Fort Shirley.

A cruise ship was in which gave a great photo shot from the ramparts.

Dominique's tropical natural forest lines the Indian river as it discharges into Portsmouth harbour and is a beautiful place to visit. As tempted as we were to take our own kayak upstream we took a tour with the very talented guide Martin early the next morning. The river narrows rapidly and is overhung with vines from the bloodwood trees (When the tree is cut with a machete the sap is red like blood) and the huge twisted and patterned root systems plunge into the river edge where crabs, fish and herons live.

We saw several varieties of hummingbirds but they were too quick for my camera. We saw many other birds too but no parrots. When the trees are in fruit the parrots come in the hundreds to eat the berries.

We stopped at a landing where a Carib Indian dwelling had been reconstructed and Martin took us for a walk through the jungle pointing out plants and flowers. He was extremely knowledgeable about nature, culture

and agriculture

The vegetation and flowers were so lush

Many lizards were seen on the trees as well.

While we were getting back into the boat Eric's glasses fell out of his pocket so Martin reached over the side to get them off the bottom but it was deeper than what he thought and he tumbled upside down up to his waist. Cathy managed to grab his leg and stopped him going in totally. It was a missed Kodak moment but we all had a good laugh afterward

On the way back down the river Martin explained the meaning of the Dominican flag, sang the National Anthem and made a beautiful Hummingbird out of reed, sitting atop a flower. This he presented to us along with a big bunch of tropical flowers

What would have been the start to a perfect day was clouded by Eric stabbing a fishing knife into the palm of his hand while dehusking a coconut. No tendon damage was done thank goodness but he had 3 sutures put in by myself.

We delayed our departure another day to Guadeloupe to allow some healing.

Martinique (Island of flowers) (18th November to 26th November)

On the 18^th of November we set sail from St Lucia for Martinique 23nm to the north. What should have taken us 4 hrs took us near 8hrs as we had big seas, rolling swells and 20-25knots of wind coming from where we needed to head! This yacht sailed past us plunging into the troughs and leaping over the waves

We have now completed the most difficult sailing as Martinique is the northern most island in the chain of Windward islands. From here we head slightly west which will mean more pleasant sailing through the Leeward islands.

Volcanic in origin, Martinique suffered a catastrophic eruption of Mt Pelee in 1902. This completely destroyed the city of St Pierre. The Atlantic side of this mountainous and lush island is rugged and rough while the west coast is sheltered with lovely beaches and pretty anchorages.

We checked in at Le Marin in the south.

The French Immigration and customs always make it easy for yachties...Computers available to fill out the necessary details on one page and no stamp in the passport! No carbon paper in triplicate, no waiting and pleasant officials. After such a pleasant arrival we looked around the boutique shops and drooled over the fishing and diving shop where we bought lures, hooks and diving boots. We have never seen such variety and choice anywhere we have travelled. Practicing my schoolgirl french we ordered Pizza and beers and enjoyed the evening people watching.

The Pizza was the best we have ever had. The French take so much pride in their food.

The next day we shopped for groceries. A dinghy pontoon has been made to allow boaties to tie up, shop then wheel their trolleys to the dinghy.

As we have moved up through the islands we are noticing more and more wrecked boats high and dry on reefs and partly sunk boats in mangrove lagoons, a consequence of the Hurricanes that come through the Caribbean.

After catching up with fellow cruising friends we moved to St Anne, a pretty little fishing village next to a Club Med resort.

The next day after a night of rain squalls, thunder and lightening we sailed to Le Grande d'Artlet. It was a fast and invigorating sail with the wind and seas behind us. We felt sorry for a couple on their yacht bashing into it from the other direction

Moorings were provided free so we tied up and headed ashore in the kayak to explore ending up at a beach side cafe for a couple of Heinekens and internet.

This wee bird was keen for refreshments too

The Bay is full of cray pots and we watched these fisherman baiting the cage with Baguettes!!!

We arrived at Fort de France on Saturday 22nd November and anchored off the city centre and Fort St Louis

 

Although the largest city in the French West Indies, Fort-de-France still retains its old quarter with its narrow streets and wrought-iron balconies. Best known for being the birth place of Josephine, wife of the Emperor Napoleon Bonaparte. The city occupies a site on the northern side of a large bay on the west coast of Martinique.
We went ashore to sight see but it was gloomy and raining. It didn't stop this band from playing though

On the 24^th of November we headed for St Pierrre which is the northern most port to check out from.

We enjoyed partaking in the french cuisine and exploring the town with many reminders of the volcanic eruption of Mt Pelee in 1902 killing 30,000 residents. 

 

We snorkelled over a statue in the bay of a mythical mermaid-like being. The head and tail were visible but the body was buried under the sand. Cathy looks like she's trying to mimic it!

As we sailed away from Martinique for Dominique we watched Mt Pelee behind a rain squall and imagined it being the volcanic debri spewing out in 1902