Banda Aceh to Palau Raya, Sumatra ( 2nd April to 5th April 2012)

We left Weh island on the 2nd of April for Lampageue, on the western headland of Banda Aceh. It was a good anchorage in sand. The electronic charting showed several islands, but they are not there. We assume they have been washed away with the Tsunami and earthquake of 2004.
This man was setting a net in the shallows

We walked through the village and could see the effects of the Tsunami. Eroded roads, sunken boats, tree trunks off shore in the water, streams blocked and no longer flowing and new housing.
We had so many questions but they had to go unanswered. We didn't want to ask the local people as our Bahasa is limited and so was their English. There must have been so much grief here that it was almost palpable

These woman were happy to sell us some supplies from their roadside stall and we laughed together as we attempted to communicate

Above the village is are steep steps to the top of a hill built after the Tsunami as an escape route.

Looking out across the landscape you can easily imagine why there was so much devastation

People were very friendly and inquisitive as we walked along the village road.

The next day we continued south passing strings of coastal villages and endless beaches with towering forested peaks behind.

We anchored behind a cape in Seudu Bay where these interesting fishing boats were moored. At night they fished for anchovies

We explored the village here and again saw the effects of the Tsunami disaster

We needed diesel and this took most of the afternoon. We dinghied ashore after locating an entrance in the reef, carried a jerry can and trundler along the road and had to go to 2 stalls to get 24litres. This was poured from a drum and measured by a jug after being dipped into a pail. The fuel looked dark but clean and to make sure we strained it through a filter

We were not the only ones walking along the road!

Anchovies drying in the sun

This motorbike was well laden. It was parked alongside a mosque and to the left of the photo one can see a cardboard replica of a TV screen which we assume the local cleric stood inside as a tool to get the attention of his parishioners during his sermons

Water Buffalo were basking in the shallow and warm water as we passed in the dinghy

Men getting ready for a nights fishing

As a reward for our diesel carrying efforts we sat in one of these pagola's drinking cool fruit juice watching the activities in the village below, followed by a meal as the sun went down.

On the 4th of April we headed out at dawn with yachts Leto and Fast Forward. Our sailing joys were short lived as the wind came around head on. We decided to pull in behind an island at Cape Tangkuru. The charting shows one island but we discovered there were 2.. It appeared that part of the mainland was washed away, separating the land now by sea.

Eric in his element trolling the reef. We didn't have fish that night!

The beach looked like silica sand from a distance but it was bleached broken coral

As we circumnavigated the island by dinghy we came across this cave.These fishermen have set up a neat home amongst the cliffs

Away at dawn again brought us through a gap between the mainland and Pulau Raya where the fishing boat style changes again.

With great internet reception from the numerous towers along this coastline I am able to write my blog while we are underway

We decided to continue south as the others stayed on in Pulau Raya

Cruising Notes

LAMPAGEUE

A handy spot just beside the Southern most pass above Aceh region. 05' 33.91 N 95' 14.37 E .Good holding on a sand bottom. We experienced a calm night. We went ashore and we could easily see evidence of the Tsunami.

SEUDU

We anchored at 05' 21.36 N 95' 14.39 E. Barbara Ann's cruising guide is helpful. Google picture gives a better over view of the layout. Easy approach. Good holding. Mind the fringing reef. Landing is on a steeply sloping broken coral beach near the partly completed structure to south of the restaurant on the bluff. Or up stream where the larger fishing boats berth on sand. We got good diesel here. We had a nicely presented meal of nasi goreng and BBQ fish at the restaurant.

CAPE TANGKURU

This is no longer a cape. Systemic events have made it an island but the locals indicated that you should not pass to the south of the new island. We anchored at 05'07.71N 95'17.68E in 12m of water behind the island as charted. There is still a large area of good anchorable depth as indicated by the charts but it may suffer from swell now the cape has gone . We spent a good night here The island is very picturesque with large caves on the seaward side.

PALAU RAYA

We did not stop here but we passed between the island and mainland. Others were anchored here. There are good depths and it looked nice. We continued overnight from here to Labuhanbajau. LOTS OVER MOTORING EVERYWERE this time of year BUT there are next to no fish traps, nets and fishing boats. Very relaxing!