Chagos to Mauritius ( 10th June to 23rd June 2012)

On the 10th of June, after our 2 weeks in Chagos, we set sail for Mauritius. As our radio had failed and we were unable to download weather GRIBS we relied on the generosity of other yachties to give us a predicted forecast.  Apart from the first day it was a pretty boisterous with winds steadily around 20knots, gusting to 25, with confused seas and a most uncomfortable motion. Cathy was seasick from the second day and it took 3 days to settle down before she got her "sealegs" so the pre-prepared meals in the freezer were appreciated by Eric and Ralph. After the 3rd day she was able to do the night watches (as the sea state wasn't so visible) and was back to normal with the help of medication (scopolamine patch- behind the ear)  At times Ralph couldn't read his kindle due to the motion! So that's saying something!

After 7 days at sea, covering good distances of 140-150nm/day we decided to seek shelter behind the Cargados shoals. The winds were increasing and predicted to be around 30knots

This chain of small islands and sand cays are around 200nm north of Mauritius and are not often visited..

                                  

As we came behind the reef the seas died down. There were many shipwrecks visible on the reef.

 We anchored in good holding sand and for 3 days it blew 20-30knots constantly with gusts to 40knots. The wind swept across the sea and whipped up spray over the small reefs.

There were 2 buildings ashore which we assumed were fishing lodges.

The colours in the lagoon were spectacular

As we were unable to celebrate Ralph's birthday at sea we had made a "raincheck" so we celebrated the day after we arrived.

Breakfast- Banana and almond hotcakes with fruit and drizzled honey - Glass of bubbly

Am tea- Chocolate cake with choc icing and candles      Perc coffee                      

Lunch- Pizza and "Bloody mary's"                                                      

Dinner-  Pre dinner drinks and nibbles  

                                    Prawns, crayfish and smoked fish chowder  

              Creme Brulee and cheesecake 

We occupied our time playing games, reading and watching movies.

There were at one time 12 Remora under our boat and we had great fun feeding them and could even touch them on the back. Eric says we have a new method of washing our dishes (Fisher/Paykel style!)

                                                               

On the 4th day ( 21st June) Ralph phoned brother Peter on the sat phone in NZ to get a weather forecast.  Conditions were settling, particularly south, so we headed back to sea.

The first few hours was pretty uncomfortable with 4m swells and winds to 30knots but it settled the further south we went.

We caught 2 tuna and 1 good sized wahoo on the way

We arrived at 0145hrs on the 23rd of June and set anchor until daybreak when we could enter the harbour for clearance by quarantine, immigration, customs and coastguard. It was exciting to see the day unfold and view the sights of Mauritius

Entering the harbour in Port Louis. The customs dock is in the right lower side of the google map with a long trapezioidal grey roof. The marina is in the lower right, to the left of the Google earth writing

The town basin with quarantine dock by the windmill

Erica tied up waiting for port clearance

Port officials

After berthing "Erica" in the marina, giving her a fresh water hose down and sending our salty/dirty clothes and linen off with the laundry man, Ralph generously paid for a night in this hotel on the 6th floor. We were  pampered with limitless hot water, enjoying a soak in a bath and a calm nights sleep

Lift views

Views from the room

Erica in the marina

So here we are enjoying the culture and scenery of Mauritius

Cruising Notes

Chagos to Mauritius:

Our HF had Failed so we had no gribs. Fellow cruises helped us out. In the three weeks that we were in Chagos watching the gribs 27/5/12 to 10/6/12  we never saw what would be an ideal weather window for this up hill passage. That being said we steeled ourselves and had a boisterous but safe and fast passage to the south of the Cargados shoals. The grib files we had when we left proved to be reasonably accurate for the 7 days of the passage. We tucked up behind the lightly vegetated sandcays that make up Coco Island. We new the charting was out . We actually found it quite accurate enough if you give things a wide berth. The anchorage is on lovely coral sand in around 6-12 meters. Friends that left just behind us tucked up in the north. The north has a Mauritius coast guard station. The CG was happy so long as they didn’t go ashore. You can get a permit but only in Mauritius! The winds lightened a little after 4days so we continued on to Mauritius with the winds lightening as we went south.

Mauritius:

We arrived at night and anchored in Tombeau Bay ( 20' 06.2604S 57' 30.2726 E ) as others had done before us and others have done since. The charting is accurate as it is in most of Mauritius. Approach squarely as there is fringing reef to the north and south. There is a sand bottom.

Mauritius has no army or navy but a police force with a well organized and equipped Coast guard branch. They monitor AIS transmissions. Call the Port Louis port control on approach. They will ask your details and give you permission to enter and assistance to find the Coast guard / Customs / immigration tie up right at the back of the harbour if you need it. The official language is English but every one speaks Creole and French and switch effortlessly to good English when needed.

Of late every one has been given 30days of visa waiver on arrival. After that if you what to stay longer you must go to the visa extension office in town with... A quarantine form customs arrival form (make sure you get one on arrival this all seems new and customs don’t normally give any thing.) Also the usual crew list plus a Photo Copy of the front page of your Passport and a Passport copy of the page with your inbound stamp. Plus a photo copy of your named bank account showing sufficient funds to support yourself.. There are Photo copy facilities in the building. Also be prepared to hand write a letter stating you need extra time due to engine problems. This is the only bit of bureaucratic bull shit we have come across so far. We will resist saying anything about the attitude of the immigration officer.

The little marina is often over crowded and you may need to raft up. It seems that you just show up and tie up somewhere. Then see the numerous pleasant security guards that will send you to the office. Its around $10 us a day all inclusive. If can organize between yourselves and other boaters a better tie up then tell security what you're about, that seems fine.

Nearly all the Mauritians you meet will be lovely folk, proud of their country and helpful but be aware that there is a criminal element particularly around Port Louis. In the short time we were there, three boats were boarded in broad day light. One of the perpetrators was caught by security and one of the numerous security cameras. One boarding was by subterfuge, so don’t be scammed.

You will be approached by Rashid the taxi driver. He is a genuine chap, making a living but keen to give you a fair deal. He can take you to get LPG and Diesel, or get it for you. Diesel is also available at Grande Baie (on water) but with only around 1.5 meters Depth. Deodath the laundry man will also approach you. He is expensive by standards we are used to, but he makes a good job even getting rid of stains that we thought were there for good. We had sails repaired by MU Sails. We were very happy. Professional workmanship is at reasonable western prices.

If you import something into Mauritius it must have a value even if it is a warranty replacement item that has cost you nothing. This will then have a VAT 15% charged on it.

The alternate procedure is to import “Yacht in Transit” . However this then requires that a broker receives the parcel, does the customs formalities and then delivers the parcel to your vessel in a bonded vehicle . This can add up to more than the value of the goods!