Namibia ( 25th April to 9th May)

After our arrival at Walvis Bay we spent several days doing maintenance and the usual tidying involved after a passage. Our anchorage area and waterfront was interesting with flamingo, pelicans and seals. Several charter boats operate out of Walvis Bay and the resident seals and pelican go aboard to entertain the tourists..

Pelican point seal colony

The yacht club and several restaurants are accessible by dinghy and there is a wharf to tie the dinghy, or the beach to pull up onto...

Once our chores were done we hired a car for 5 days and drove off to see the countryside. The local housing out of town was a contrast to the very popular seaside town of Swokopmond which has a cool and bracing climate compared to the hot and dry interior. It is very picturesque with many well preserved German buidings dating back to the country's colonial rule. German is still widely spoken and the cafes sell beautiful German cakes and pastries.

Tourism gives the locals work

We travelled to the Etosha National park some 700kms to the NE.

The landscape was really interesting. From sand dunes and rolling seas crashing onto the shoreline to the gravel plains and Moonlandscape, canyons and mountains, and desert stretching for miles . Hardy vegetation increased as we approached the national Park

Photos along the way

Traditional and modern dress

Animal sculptures from roots.. Spot the Giraffe! And termite sculptures

All the rivers we saw were dry and there were many herds of cows and goats being driven along the roadside for feed

The Etosha national park has 3 government run wildlife resorts within its boundries with 3 entrance gates. We entered the park from the Sw through the Anderson gate. There was a meat inspector at the entrance as there is concern about foot and mouth disease.

Each site has a variety of accomodation options from camping to full service hotel facilities. Each site has its own waterhole to view the wildlife throughout the night and day.

We chose to camp which fitted our budget and lifestyle.

Unfortunately our campsite had no shade and we had to pitch the tent on gravel. But we were well prepared....

Amazing birds nest

The waterhole we viewed at night and saw mostly black rhino and elephants.

We cuddled down in our wee tent listening to the bone chilling roar of lions and piercing squeals of attacked zebra along with the cries of the hyaena. The jackals scavenging the rubbish bins occassionally dwarfed the sounds of the kill.

The next day we drove through the park stopping at waterholes on our way and saw numerous game. Being a dry period the animals were drawn to the waterholes..We came across a recent kill and hyaena and jackal were competing for what was left.

Our second night was spent at Halali resort where we found shade to pitch our tent and facilities nearby. The waterhole was built on the face of a rock outcrop giving a close up view below to the animals coming in.

Again we saw mostly black rhino and elephants. Once the sun went down it got quite cold so we went back to our camp. Our bedding was lovely and warm from the sun during the afternoon

The temperature dropped during the night so getting up in the night to use the ablutions was a rapid affair.

At night the honey badger scavenged the bins even though the bins were suspended from the trees they managed to get at them. These two in the photo had much more important things to do!

The 3^rd night we left the park and stayed at a private facility ( Eldorado) with lovely lush green grass and shade under trees. Here we saw leopard, cheetahs and caracas so we were thrilled as we hadn't seen these in the sth African game reserves.

 Can you spot the leopard??

Caracas

The Cheetah looked so docile and meowed just like a domestic cat

Eric was content.. A beer in hand, dog on his lap and a great safari day

Our trip back to Walvis bay was really interesting. We took some lesser travelled gravel roads which passed the Brandberge mountains. The highest peak reaches 2,574m from the desert floor where there is a world heritage site for rock paintings.

We didn't have time to stop but enjoyed the scenery.

Outside this dwelling there is a bath and solar panel

The area was scattered with rock piles and glistening sands. Here we bought an amethyst gemstone off a roadside seller as a souvenir.

After the township of Uis we stopped at some roadside shops where the Herero people were dressed in their traditional clothes. We bought some souvenirs and took photos. This delightful girl was overjoyed to sell us some dolls and beads. She also asked for food which we were able to oblige

During the 19^th century women were influenced by missionaries wives and developed wide multi skited victorian-style dresses that more traditional women wear today. The distinctive headdress made from fabric characterised by 2 points on either side symbolises cattle horns.

Dress of the Bushmen and woman

The landscape was very dramatic changing every few kilometres.

We had lunch at Henties bay then travelled down the coast where we spotted a shipwreck just 5 yrs earlier. Its no wonder they call this the skeleton coast

After coffeee and cake at Swakopmund we took a scenic route back to Walvis Bay passing the Welwitschia plains. The plant the Welwitschia mirabilis grows in a belt up the coast and is endemic to Namibia. It is a tree dwarfed by the harshness of the desert and the major part of the stem has been driven underground. It produces 2 leaves up to 3m in length in it's lifetime.

We stopped briefly at the spectacular sand dune...Dune 7 for photographs. The Dunes are very popular for quad biking and sand boarding.

We got back to the yacht club to find our dinghy full of sand. Apparently for the 3 days we were away there had been winds up to 40knots and 1-2m waves through the anchorage. Fellow yachties said the conditions were horrendous in the bay. We had looked at the weather before we left aiming to return before the predicted blow however it came early. Luckily the anchor held well and we avoided the unpleasant rolling aboard by being away.

Today we clear Namibia with the officials and leave for St Helena tomorrow.. 9^th may

The trip should take us around 9days.. 1200nmNamibia

Cruisers Notes

We left Cape Town and stopped overnight at Dassan Island. The next day we set a course taking us past Luderitz and on to Hottentot Bay . (26*08.374 S) (14*.28.998E) . Goods holding on sand. Chose your depth, the bottom slowly rises as you approach the old jetty. It was quiet while we were there but it is a barren wind swept place. The ruins are interesting and the play of light on the sand dunes as the sun set was amazing. As you will know , one can expect fog all the way up this coast. We had beautifully clear days and nights all the way until our final approach into Walvis Bay. We do not have radar but the only shipping that affected us had AIS so we went to our predetermined anchorage at night with out any problems. (22*57.119S) (14*28.998E) How ever on leaving WB we did notice that the charted fish trap, mussel farm area now extends farther into the bay than our charts showed. The bottom is a sand mud mix with very good holding. While we were there as bad a blow as they have ever had, came through , and no one dragged.

We landed at the YC which is just upstream past the cafe, restaurant buildings that are most visible from all the anchorage. The YC is friendly with a nice bar, restaurant, showers , toilets and WiFi (short range , only inside or just outside the office.) Unlike SA there’s no free membership. We did not keep good records but memory says N$ 300 for one week ?? A good laundry service picked up and returned

to the club. SA rands can be used in Namibia, on a one to one basis.

Landing can be made at the jetty in front of the restaurant , cafe area. There is a tap for water at the end of the jetty. Others found some one to pay for the water. We took our water at the YC but this is not as convenient.

Unless you really need showers and Wi Fi ? Everything else can be sorted from the jetty area.

The check in , out is around 15 to 30 min walk into the middle of town and then out to the wharf area by the water tower. From the YC, make your way into town down 6^th street then turn left at Rikumbi Kandanga st and carry on out into the wharf area until you see the port authority on your left.

Warning: Do not approach the immigration people between 1 and 2 pm , lunch time. You may find yourself s face to face with an angry Namibian she lion !!

Right at the far end of 5^th rd is an information center where good maps are free. Note: Roads go landward and Streets follow the shore. One exception being Rikumbi Kandanga st !?

We wanted to do a cheap safari up to Etosha National Park .

We hired a car via the internet. Bought a small tent from the 4 wheel dive place in town and loaded our boat squabs in for bedding. We had a small butane stove but everywhere we went had wood fired BBQ,s

We did not order but were supplied with an air conditioned car. This was a godsend as many of the roads are gravel and you need to closed up to keep the dust out.

One needs an early start if you want to get there in one day. We stopped at Okaukuejo the first night. It was a little expensive considering the harsh camp site. But the amenities , showers ,toilets , laundry wash house and kitchen were clean. There was a lot of activity at the water hole that night, just a few meters from the camp site.

Warning: You are not supposed to take any unprocessed meat into the park. You will be inspected. You can buy frozen meat at the park store. From sun down the Jackals go berserk getting into anything that they think may contain food. They will rip your unoccupied tent open and even get on your restaurant table!

There is microwave speed monitoring in the park.

We saw lots of wildlife as we drove through the park to Halali. The facility’s were similar here but the camp site although on hard ground was a nicer setting. The Jackals were replaced by Honey Badger, which were a lot sweeter. The water hole layout was appealing but we saw less wild life. We know that others had seen a lot here. We then drove slowly back through the park and enjoyed a lot more. It was very dry while we were there and visually different to the SA parks we saw.

The third night we spent at a small private camp just out side the park called Eldorado. There is a large picture of a Cheetah at the front gate. On the right as you approach Etosha, 8km from the Anderson gate. This is a cattle ranch that augments their income by offering camping sites. The Cheetah and Leopard were trapped on the ranch and there care is monitored by government authorities. The camp site is lovely on grass with a nice shade tree. It has a family feel with the shower block in rustic stone and the water heated by fire. Each site has power and water. You can hand feed the young Kudu and the well mannered pet dogs will help you out if you have any excess from the BBQ. You can see the Cheetah included in the modest camp fee and a little extra to see the Leopard. We understand that it can sometimes get a little busy on weekends and school holidays.

Prices

Etosha wildlife park entrance fee $80Npp/per day

vehicle fee $10N per day

Camping fees per day/pp were $200-210N within the park at the 3 sites. B&B accomodation was much more expensive. Private parks/accomodation outside the Etosha National park were approximately half the price.

We had one highly recommended place which gave a package deal of tours and accomodation including all meals with lots of animals ie cheetah, cubs etc as well as the usual wildlife....Harnas wildlife foundation

The next day we drove back to Walvis Bay Via Outjo, Khorixas, Uis, Henties Bay and Swakopmund.

From Swako to Walvis there is an old sealed road that is inland behind the sand dunes that runs parallel to the coast road. The whole route was very scenic.

We found Walvis Bay very relaxing and would happly have spent more time there.