This
unique 7mile long island is divided through the middle, the north
being French and the south Dutch.
According
to Chris Doyle's cruising guide there is a charming story,
unsupported by historical fact that the French and Dutch were so
civilised that, rather than fight over the island, they had a
Frenchman armed with a bottle of wine walk in one direction and a
Dutchman equipped with a flask of gin take the other. Where they met
became the boundary, and the French ended up with a bit more because
the gin was stronger than the wine!
We
arrived here on the 14th December after a pleasant
downwind overnight sail from Barbuda, anchoring on the outside of the
lagoon on the French side at Marigot Bay. We waited here until the
swing bridge opens to allow yachts into the sheltered lagoon. Waiting
outside the canal entrance while boats came out of the lagoon was
what the guide book suggested. But alas while we politely allowed
others to go through ahead of us it closed!!!! Not having good enough
French to call them on VHF radio and advised not to call speaking
English we went back on anchor. Feeling somewhat pissed off Eric
bought out the rum bottle and Cathy decided to cut the Xmas cake.
The
next morning at the proposed opening time of 0815hrs we waited again
at the canal entrance but the bridge did not open at all!!! Later we
were to discover that the guide book info had changed and the bridge
opened at 0900hrs
Sooooo
we set off around the island to the Dutch side and to their bridge!
We waited until the opening enjoying the scenery out in Simpson Bay.
The
Dutch bridge opened on time and we followed other boats through into
the sheltered lagoon
When
the big super yachts go through it is quite a site with only
centimetres of clearance each side and by the damage to the bridge
sometimes the skipper gets it wrong as you can see by the photo
We
counted 30 motor yachts over 150' long and around 10 super yachts
within the lagoon and more outside. This isn't even the peak season!
Many of the Caribbean islands economies rely heavily on the charter
boat business and these super yachts are the charter fleet for the
super rich who fly in and out on their lear jets as opposed to cattle
class in the airbus! The middle class fly in on the largest jets and
sail away on the smallest yachts while the rich fly in on the
smallest of jets and sail away on the biggest yachts!
After
15mins the next bridge opened from St Maarten on the Dutch side to St
Martin on the French side. This one is a swivel bridge
Irish
friends on SV Karma and NZ friends on SV Rhombus were in the lagoon
so we anchored nearby
We
spent the next 2 weeks restocking the boat with food and duty free
liquor, doing maintenance and exploring our new surroundings. As
always in a new place it took time to find what we wanted and at the
right price. It was strange to pay Euro at one end of the lagoon and
US dollars at the other end.
We
walked up to Fort Louis for the great views back across the Lagoon
and out to sea
During
our walk we saw Iguana and these very colourful wasps.
These
Iguana also liked sunning themselves on boats
In
October a tropical storm developed into a category 3 hurricane named
Gonzalo and swept across St Martin destroying many boats. As we
circumnavigated the lagoon we saw remnants of the damage
A
walk to Maho bay down a beautiful long beach and through resorts
brought us to the end of the airport runway. This is a very popular
place to spend some hrs drinking at the bar, swimming and lying on
deckchairs while the planes come in. They come over so close to the beach that you feel you could reach up and touch them.
Eric looking out to sea and at the bottom right eating a baguette
Many people line up to take photos at takeoff and it's pretty exciting to be in the jet stream as these planes roar up their engines causing the sand to have a sandblasting effect. Then they all dive for cover!!
I took this movie then had to dive for cover. It was hilarious!
A
bus trip to the Dutch capital Philipsburg was interesting. 4 cruise
ships were docked and the town centre and beach restaurants were buzzing with
tourists. We did some xmas shopping and strolled along the beach
We
had a quiet but pleasant Xmas aboard “Erica”eating and drinking
and watching the sites. On Boxing day we topped up our diesel and
water tanks in preparation for leaving the next day.
On
the 27th of December we left the lagoon and set sail for
the British Virgin islands
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