St Helena (9th of May to 29th May 2013)

We left Walvis bay  Namibia, with newly made friends Klaus and Juana from SV Boomerang 2 on the 9^th of May, to sail to St Helena. It  is situated 1200nm to the NW in the South Atlantic ocean… Access to the island is currently only by ship but an airport is being constructed.

 A friendly seal decided to leap aboard hoping we had some fish. The tourist boat operators feed them each day as part of their routine. Eric offered some canned tuna which it declined and slid overboard!

We had a tedious and boring trip with the wind never quite in the perfect direction to fill the sails and give us speed downwind, along with an unpleasant  rolling action from the stern. Our highlight of the trip was passing the meridian line taking us from the eastern to the western hemisphere.

In our minds we are half way around the world…..We were pleased to see the peaks of St Helena Island at the end of the 9^th day.

We took a mooring bouy and relaxed for the rest of the day choosing to clear with Immigration and customs the next day, being Monday. 

A ferry operates every 2 hrs to provide transport ashore. This was most helpful on the first day to see where to land and at times when it is very rough causing rollers to break on the sea wall. We used our kayak most of the time to regain our fitness and save the 2 Pound return trip pp charge.

We arrived unknowingly over the long weekend of Whitsunday and Monday and St Helena Day (21^st May) so enjoyed the festivities ashore, celebrating  it’s discovery in 1502. 

With Klaus and Juana we puffed and panted our way up the 699 steps of Jacobs ladder ( 600ft) to enjoy the view of the bay. This inclined plane was built in 1829 to ferry goods to and from the town on rail tracks then reverted to steps when the roads were built.

 At the top of ladder hill is the old fort with it’s barracks and battery commanding spectacular views of the Ocean and Jamestown. The views of Jamestown in the valley are stunning

The road winds it’s way down the valley boarded on one side by chain link and wire rope fencing and on the other by a rock wall to guard  against rock falls.

As extra punishment to our aching calf muscles we took the gravel track over the other side of the valley to view the old fortifications and view the celebrations below.

The warship Black Rover was anchored in the bay as part of the St Helena day celebrations

Many hours were spent looking around town at the old buildings and  museum, shopping  and enjoying coffee and cake

We took a local bus up to Red Hill then walked to High Knoll Fort which was built as a redoubt for the island population incase of an invasion.

We got the key from the National trust office and enjoyed the time fossicking through the old barracks and fort with a torch.

The view here was also spectacular and we watched the HMS St Helena arriving which sails between Capetown,  St Helena and Ascension Island on a regular basis bringing supplies and passengers.

 Cathy encouraged us to sample the fruit of the cactus “Prickly pear”

Walking along the road through a forest of Bastard Gums which are endemic to St Helena and NZ flax brought us to Plantation House which is the residence of the Governor. It was built in 1792 by the East India company. The grounds surrounding are open to the public with historic nature trails and  5 Tortoise to see.

Walking back to Jamestown was all downhill through the villages where people  were so friendly and forthcoming with information.  We sat on the top of the Hill looking at the St Helena offloading supplies and passengers

With 2 ships arriving in close succession we weren’t able to hire a car for a week but we had an itinerary well planned by the time we did.

We visited The 2 houses where Napoleon was held in exile. Local saints are passionate about their history and gave us an excellent guided tour of each house

We took a stroll down the valley to the very peaceful glen where Napoleon requested he be buried if his body wasn’t allowed off the island. The tomb no longer holds his body. It was exhumed 19 yrs later and returned to France.

With a long haul ahead of us to Brazil we had been struggling to find enough fresh fruit , veges  and eggs so we stopped at every roadside shop to provision. There isn’t enough produce grown locally to keep up with the demand and when it reaches the shops it vanishes quickly from the shelves and  the supply ship from Capetown takes several days to offload it’s supplies.

This shop was almost completely hidden and only an old rustic sign gave a clue to it’s existence.  This local man was enjoying a beer in the driveway entrance and pointed out the shop to us.

We wound our way down the exceptionally steep, narrow and winding road enjoying the view and diverse landscape. NZ flax was brought and planted here for the production of rope

There were small pockets of lush flora in a ribbon down the valley surrounded by the arid volcanic peaks

Old stone fortifications and cannon still stand in defence of this “Sandy Bay” beach

We arrived back at Jamestown just before dark and enjoyed an ale at the Pub before returning to our boats.

Tomorrow we check out and on Wednesday morning  set sail for Fernando de Noronha, 1800nm to the nor west ,an island off the Brazilian coast.

Cruiser Note's For St Helena

We left Walvis Bay in 15 knt's from the SW soon changing to 10 to 20 veering between SE to E.

After a nine day Passage we approached the Jamestown anchorage in the morning from the north.

The local boats all face the land as they are tied to heavy braided, floating, polypropylene warps that extend from inshore anchorage points seawards.

For obvious reasons don't steam in amongst the local craft.

The mornings that have been laid for transient boats are just south of the local boats. ( 2 pound per day) Everyone is very obliging and helpful. Just pay later when you have the money.

This seems to be a well chosen site, although it is a long way from the landing dock.

The water is clean and clear. Around fifteen meters over sand. Good bottom fishing in the late afternoon and evening.

The moderately large mooning buoys have a large ring on the top that you are expected to pass a line through. However the ring lies flat and is difficult to lift remotely. Be prepared to come along side the buoy or reverse up to it . Maybe even standing on it to pass the line through.

Friends tried to anchor but their anchor did not bed well. The sand seemed to have little depth to it.

The little ferry to shore is the best way. ( now 1 pound per person one way.) but we went by inflatable kayak and hauled it up on to the dock. Others did similar with small inflatables and one person tied theirs off at the dock. It seemed to survive it .

There is usually a swell rolling in but it the eight days we were there it was never a problem getting ashore.

We had the first three days there flat calm.

St Helena radio gave us a time to be ready and the ferry picked us up and took us ashore to clear.

Information others have given regards fees, internet ,supply’s etc are reasonably accurate. Fresh veges happen when they happen there is no real regular time for them to arrive . We had trouble getting eggs on the west of the island but found plenty in the east.

Ann’s place is nice but as we had heard it was lackluster and we found the Consulate hotel a better base.

If you want to hire a car , the best deal is direct from Collins garage, or if they don't have one the tourist center will arrange one for you but it will, likely, cost a little more. They can be in short supply if the supply ship HMS St Helena is coming in. Don't expect to get higher than second gear. If you do , your'e speeding!

We were approached to take a guided tour, but chose to drive ourselves

If you require LPG? Get you bottle to Solomon's garage before Thursday as the bottles are taken early on Thursday for filling. It is expensive but they can put in a measured amount if you ask. Ours was topped right up by mistake but they are such obliging people that we chose not to make a fuss.

For us this was a fascinating place with so much to see and lots of exploring to do.

We think it needs to be thought of more as a destination rather than a short stop over. We met a Sth African couple on their boat and they were working for 6mths to supplement their funds. This is permissable.

Namibia ( 25th April to 9th May)

After our arrival at Walvis Bay we spent several days doing maintenance and the usual tidying involved after a passage. Our anchorage area and waterfront was interesting with flamingo, pelicans and seals. Several charter boats operate out of Walvis Bay and the resident seals and pelican go aboard to entertain the tourists..

Pelican point seal colony

The yacht club and several restaurants are accessible by dinghy and there is a wharf to tie the dinghy, or the beach to pull up onto...

Once our chores were done we hired a car for 5 days and drove off to see the countryside. The local housing out of town was a contrast to the very popular seaside town of Swokopmond which has a cool and bracing climate compared to the hot and dry interior. It is very picturesque with many well preserved German buidings dating back to the country's colonial rule. German is still widely spoken and the cafes sell beautiful German cakes and pastries.

Tourism gives the locals work

We travelled to the Etosha National park some 700kms to the NE.

The landscape was really interesting. From sand dunes and rolling seas crashing onto the shoreline to the gravel plains and Moonlandscape, canyons and mountains, and desert stretching for miles . Hardy vegetation increased as we approached the national Park

Photos along the way

Traditional and modern dress

Animal sculptures from roots.. Spot the Giraffe! And termite sculptures

All the rivers we saw were dry and there were many herds of cows and goats being driven along the roadside for feed

The Etosha national park has 3 government run wildlife resorts within its boundries with 3 entrance gates. We entered the park from the Sw through the Anderson gate. There was a meat inspector at the entrance as there is concern about foot and mouth disease.

Each site has a variety of accomodation options from camping to full service hotel facilities. Each site has its own waterhole to view the wildlife throughout the night and day.

We chose to camp which fitted our budget and lifestyle.

Unfortunately our campsite had no shade and we had to pitch the tent on gravel. But we were well prepared....

Amazing birds nest

The waterhole we viewed at night and saw mostly black rhino and elephants.

We cuddled down in our wee tent listening to the bone chilling roar of lions and piercing squeals of attacked zebra along with the cries of the hyaena. The jackals scavenging the rubbish bins occassionally dwarfed the sounds of the kill.

The next day we drove through the park stopping at waterholes on our way and saw numerous game. Being a dry period the animals were drawn to the waterholes..We came across a recent kill and hyaena and jackal were competing for what was left.

Our second night was spent at Halali resort where we found shade to pitch our tent and facilities nearby. The waterhole was built on the face of a rock outcrop giving a close up view below to the animals coming in.

Again we saw mostly black rhino and elephants. Once the sun went down it got quite cold so we went back to our camp. Our bedding was lovely and warm from the sun during the afternoon

The temperature dropped during the night so getting up in the night to use the ablutions was a rapid affair.

At night the honey badger scavenged the bins even though the bins were suspended from the trees they managed to get at them. These two in the photo had much more important things to do!

The 3^rd night we left the park and stayed at a private facility ( Eldorado) with lovely lush green grass and shade under trees. Here we saw leopard, cheetahs and caracas so we were thrilled as we hadn't seen these in the sth African game reserves.

 Can you spot the leopard??

Caracas

The Cheetah looked so docile and meowed just like a domestic cat

Eric was content.. A beer in hand, dog on his lap and a great safari day

Our trip back to Walvis bay was really interesting. We took some lesser travelled gravel roads which passed the Brandberge mountains. The highest peak reaches 2,574m from the desert floor where there is a world heritage site for rock paintings.

We didn't have time to stop but enjoyed the scenery.

Outside this dwelling there is a bath and solar panel

The area was scattered with rock piles and glistening sands. Here we bought an amethyst gemstone off a roadside seller as a souvenir.

After the township of Uis we stopped at some roadside shops where the Herero people were dressed in their traditional clothes. We bought some souvenirs and took photos. This delightful girl was overjoyed to sell us some dolls and beads. She also asked for food which we were able to oblige

During the 19^th century women were influenced by missionaries wives and developed wide multi skited victorian-style dresses that more traditional women wear today. The distinctive headdress made from fabric characterised by 2 points on either side symbolises cattle horns.

Dress of the Bushmen and woman

The landscape was very dramatic changing every few kilometres.

We had lunch at Henties bay then travelled down the coast where we spotted a shipwreck just 5 yrs earlier. Its no wonder they call this the skeleton coast

After coffeee and cake at Swakopmund we took a scenic route back to Walvis Bay passing the Welwitschia plains. The plant the Welwitschia mirabilis grows in a belt up the coast and is endemic to Namibia. It is a tree dwarfed by the harshness of the desert and the major part of the stem has been driven underground. It produces 2 leaves up to 3m in length in it's lifetime.

We stopped briefly at the spectacular sand dune...Dune 7 for photographs. The Dunes are very popular for quad biking and sand boarding.

We got back to the yacht club to find our dinghy full of sand. Apparently for the 3 days we were away there had been winds up to 40knots and 1-2m waves through the anchorage. Fellow yachties said the conditions were horrendous in the bay. We had looked at the weather before we left aiming to return before the predicted blow however it came early. Luckily the anchor held well and we avoided the unpleasant rolling aboard by being away.

Today we clear Namibia with the officials and leave for St Helena tomorrow.. 9^th may

The trip should take us around 9days.. 1200nmNamibia

Cruisers Notes

We left Cape Town and stopped overnight at Dassan Island. The next day we set a course taking us past Luderitz and on to Hottentot Bay . (26*08.374 S) (14*.28.998E) . Goods holding on sand. Chose your depth, the bottom slowly rises as you approach the old jetty. It was quiet while we were there but it is a barren wind swept place. The ruins are interesting and the play of light on the sand dunes as the sun set was amazing. As you will know , one can expect fog all the way up this coast. We had beautifully clear days and nights all the way until our final approach into Walvis Bay. We do not have radar but the only shipping that affected us had AIS so we went to our predetermined anchorage at night with out any problems. (22*57.119S) (14*28.998E) How ever on leaving WB we did notice that the charted fish trap, mussel farm area now extends farther into the bay than our charts showed. The bottom is a sand mud mix with very good holding. While we were there as bad a blow as they have ever had, came through , and no one dragged.

We landed at the YC which is just upstream past the cafe, restaurant buildings that are most visible from all the anchorage. The YC is friendly with a nice bar, restaurant, showers , toilets and WiFi (short range , only inside or just outside the office.) Unlike SA there’s no free membership. We did not keep good records but memory says N$ 300 for one week ?? A good laundry service picked up and returned

to the club. SA rands can be used in Namibia, on a one to one basis.

Landing can be made at the jetty in front of the restaurant , cafe area. There is a tap for water at the end of the jetty. Others found some one to pay for the water. We took our water at the YC but this is not as convenient.

Unless you really need showers and Wi Fi ? Everything else can be sorted from the jetty area.

The check in , out is around 15 to 30 min walk into the middle of town and then out to the wharf area by the water tower. From the YC, make your way into town down 6^th street then turn left at Rikumbi Kandanga st and carry on out into the wharf area until you see the port authority on your left.

Warning: Do not approach the immigration people between 1 and 2 pm , lunch time. You may find yourself s face to face with an angry Namibian she lion !!

Right at the far end of 5^th rd is an information center where good maps are free. Note: Roads go landward and Streets follow the shore. One exception being Rikumbi Kandanga st !?

We wanted to do a cheap safari up to Etosha National Park .

We hired a car via the internet. Bought a small tent from the 4 wheel dive place in town and loaded our boat squabs in for bedding. We had a small butane stove but everywhere we went had wood fired BBQ,s

We did not order but were supplied with an air conditioned car. This was a godsend as many of the roads are gravel and you need to closed up to keep the dust out.

One needs an early start if you want to get there in one day. We stopped at Okaukuejo the first night. It was a little expensive considering the harsh camp site. But the amenities , showers ,toilets , laundry wash house and kitchen were clean. There was a lot of activity at the water hole that night, just a few meters from the camp site.

Warning: You are not supposed to take any unprocessed meat into the park. You will be inspected. You can buy frozen meat at the park store. From sun down the Jackals go berserk getting into anything that they think may contain food. They will rip your unoccupied tent open and even get on your restaurant table!

There is microwave speed monitoring in the park.

We saw lots of wildlife as we drove through the park to Halali. The facility’s were similar here but the camp site although on hard ground was a nicer setting. The Jackals were replaced by Honey Badger, which were a lot sweeter. The water hole layout was appealing but we saw less wild life. We know that others had seen a lot here. We then drove slowly back through the park and enjoyed a lot more. It was very dry while we were there and visually different to the SA parks we saw.

The third night we spent at a small private camp just out side the park called Eldorado. There is a large picture of a Cheetah at the front gate. On the right as you approach Etosha, 8km from the Anderson gate. This is a cattle ranch that augments their income by offering camping sites. The Cheetah and Leopard were trapped on the ranch and there care is monitored by government authorities. The camp site is lovely on grass with a nice shade tree. It has a family feel with the shower block in rustic stone and the water heated by fire. Each site has power and water. You can hand feed the young Kudu and the well mannered pet dogs will help you out if you have any excess from the BBQ. You can see the Cheetah included in the modest camp fee and a little extra to see the Leopard. We understand that it can sometimes get a little busy on weekends and school holidays.

Prices

Etosha wildlife park entrance fee $80Npp/per day

vehicle fee $10N per day

Camping fees per day/pp were $200-210N within the park at the 3 sites. B&B accomodation was much more expensive. Private parks/accomodation outside the Etosha National park were approximately half the price.

We had one highly recommended place which gave a package deal of tours and accomodation including all meals with lots of animals ie cheetah, cubs etc as well as the usual wildlife....Harnas wildlife foundation

The next day we drove back to Walvis Bay Via Outjo, Khorixas, Uis, Henties Bay and Swakopmund.

From Swako to Walvis there is an old sealed road that is inland behind the sand dunes that runs parallel to the coast road. The whole route was very scenic.

We found Walvis Bay very relaxing and would happly have spent more time there.